Assembling a Robot


Now that you have chosen all the basic building blocks used to make a robot, the next step is to design and build a structure or frame which keeps them all together and gives your robot a distinct look and shape.
Making the Frame
There is no “ideal” way to create a frame since there is almost always a trade-off to be made; You may want a lightweight frame but it may need to use expensive materials or end up too fragile. You may want a robust or large chassis but realize it will be expensive, heavy or hard to produce. Your “ideal” frame may be complex and take too much time to design and create when a simple frame may have been just as good. There is also rarely ever an “ideal” shape, but some designs can certainly look more elegant in their simplicity, while others can attract attention because of their complexity.

Materials

There are many materials you can use to create a frame. As you use more and more materials to build not only robots but other devices, you will get a better feeling as to which is most appropriate for a given project. The list of suggested building materials below include only the more common ones, and once you have tried a few, feel free to experiment with ones not on the list, or merge some together.

Use existing commercial products

RoboBrrd by RobotGrrlYou have likely seen school projects which were based on existing mass produced products such as bottles, cardboard boxes, Tupperware, etc.  This is essentially “re-purposing” a product and has the potential to either save you a lot of time and money, or create added hassle and headache. The amazingRoboBrrdto the left is a very good example of how to repurpose materials and make a very capable robot out of them.

Basic construction material

Cardboard robot from tweenbots.comSome of the most basic construction materials can be used to make excellent frames. One of cheapest and most readily available materials is cardboard, which you can often find for free and can be easily cut, bent, glued and layered. Example: You can create a reinforced cardboard box which looks a lot nicer and is more proportional in size to your robot. You can then spread epoxy or glue to make it more durable and then paint it.

Flat structural material

Talking Animatronic Robot HeadOne of the most common ways to make a frame is to use a standard material such as a sheet of wood, plastic or metal, and add holes for connecting all the actuators and electronics. A durable piece of wood tends to be fairly thick and heavy, whereas a thin sheet of metal may be too flexible. Example:   A flat ⅛” piece of dense wood can be easily cut with a saw, drilled (without fear of shattering), painted, sanded, and more. You can connect devices to both sides (for example connect the motors and caster wheels to the bottom, and the electronics and battery to the top) and the wood will still remain intact and solid.

Laser cut / bent plastic or metal

Thing-O-Matic Makerbot.comIf you are at the stage where you are prepared to have a frame outsourced, the best options are still to have the part precision cut using a laser or water jet. Having a company produce a custom part is ideal only if you are confident in all your dimensions, since mistakes can be quite costly. Companies which offer computer controlled cutting services many also offer a variety of other services including bending and painting.

3D printing

Turtle Shell Racer3D printing a frame is rarely ever the most structurally sound solution (because it is built up in layers), but this process can produce very intricate and complex shapes which would not be possible (or very difficult) by other means. A single 3D printed part can contain all the necessary mounting points for all electrical and mechanical components while saving considerable weight. As 3D printing becomes more popular, the price of producing parts will also go down.  A very prominent advantage of 3D printing is not only that your design is easy to reproduce, it is also, easy to share. For instance, you can click on the turtle shell example on the left and get all the design instruction and CAD files.

Polymoph

Polymorph is really in a class on its own; at room temperature, Polymorph is a hard plastic, but when heated (in hot water for instance), it becomes malleable and can be shaped into intricate parts, which then cools and solidifies into durable plastic parts. Normally, plastic parts require high temperatures and molds, making them off-limits to most hobbyists. Example: You can combine different shapes (cylinders, flat sheets etc) to form complex plastic structures which look production. You can also experiment with basic molding, the Polymorph robotic arm is a good example of what you can achieve with this material.

Putting the Robot Together

Given the selection of materials and methods, how do you get started? Follow the steps below to create an aesthetic, simple and structurally sound smaller sized robot frame.Prototype frames made out of (a) paper, (b) cardboard, and (c) metal.
  1. Settle on a construction material choice.
  2. Get all the parts that you robot will require (electrical and mechanical) and measure them. If you don’t have all your parts on hand, you can refer to the dimensions provided by manufacturer’s
  3. Brainstorm and sketch a few different designs for the frame. Don’t go into too much detail.
  4. Once you settle on a design, make sure the structure is sound and that the components would be well supported.
  5. Draw each part of your robot in paper or cardboard at 1:1 scale (real size). You can also draw them using CAD software and print them out.
  6. Test your design in CAD and in real life with your paper prototype by test fitting each part and connections.
  7. Measure everything again! and once you are absolutely sure your design is correct, start cutting the frame into the actual material. Remember, measure twice and cut once!
  8. Test fit each component before assembling the frame in case modifications are require.
  9. Go crazy and assemble your frame using hot glue, screws, nails, Duck tape or whatever other binding technique you choose for your robot.
  10. Fit all the components onto the frame and voila: you have just created a robot from scratch!
Assembling the Robot Components
Step 10 from the list above deserves to be elaborated upon. In previous lessons, you had chosen the electrical components and actuators. Now, your need to get them all working together. For the following section we will use generic cable colors and terminal names that only cover the common case. As always, the datasheet and manuals are you bests friends when understanding how robotic equipment works.

Connecting Motors to Motor Controllers

A DC (gear) motor, or DC linear actuator will likely have two wires: red and black. Connect the red wire to the M+ terminal on the DC motor controller, and the black to M-. Reversing the wires will only cause the motor to spin in the opposite direction. A servo motor, there are are three wires: one black (GND), red (4.8 to 6V) and, yellow (position signal). A servo motor controller has pins matching these wires so the servo can be plugged directly to it.

Connecting Batteries to a Motor Controller or a Microcontroller

Most  motor controllers have two screw terminals for the battery leads labelled B+ and B-. If your battery came with a connector and your controller uses screw terminals, you may be able to find a mating connector with pigtails (wires) which you can connect to the screw terminal. If not, you may need to find another way to connect the battery to the motor controller while still being able to unplug the battery and connect it to a charger. It is possible that not all the electromechanical products you chose for your robot can operate at the same voltage and thus may require several batteries or voltage regulation circuits. See bellow the usual voltage levels involved in common hobby robotics components:
  • DC gear motors – 3V to 24V
  • Standard Servo motors – 4.8V to 6V
  • Specialty Servo motors – 7.4V to 12V
  • Stepper motors – 6V to 12V
  • Microcontrollers usually include voltage regulators – 3V to 12V
  • Sensors – 3.3V, 5V and 12V
  • DC motor controllers – 3V to 48V
  • Standard batteries are 3.7V, 4.8V, 6V, 7.4V, 9V, 11.1V and 12V
If you are making a robot with DC gear motors, a microcontroller and maybe a servo or two, it is easy to see how one battery may not be able to power everything directly. We recommend nevertheless, choosing a battery which can directly power as many devices as possible. The battery with the greatest capacity should be associated with the drive motors. For example, if the motors you chose are rated a nominal 12V, your main battery should also be 12V, then you can use a regulator o power a 5V microcontroller. Without going into details, NiMH and LiPo are the top two choices for small to medium-sized robots. Choose NiMh for a cheaper price and LiPo for a lighter weight. Warning: Batteries are powerful devices and can easily burn your circuits if they are connected incorrectly. Always triple check that the polarity is right and that you device can handle the energy provided by the battery. If you are not sure, don’t “guess”. Electricity is much faster than you, by the time you realize something is wrong, the magic blue smoke already escaped your device.

Connecting Motor controllers to Microcontroller

A microcontroller can communicate with motor controllers in a variety of ways:
  • Serial: The controller has two pins labelled Rx (receive) and Tx (transmit). Connect the Rx pin of the motor controller to the microcontroller’s Tx pin and vice versa.
  • I2C: The motor controller will have four pins: SDA, SCL, V, GND. Your microcontroller will have the same four pins but not necessarily labelled, simply connect them one to one.
  • PWM: The motor controller will have both a PWM input and a digital input for each motor. Connect the PWM input pin of the motor controller to a PWM output pin on the microcontroller, and connect each digital input pin of the motor controller to a digital output pin on the microcontroller.
  • R/C: To connect a microcontroller to an R/C motor controller, you need to connect the signal pin to a digital pin on the microcontroller.
Regardless of the communication method, the motor controller’s logic and the microcontroller need to share the same ground reference (this is achieved by connecting the GND pins together) and the same logic high level (this can be achieved by using the same V+ pin to power both devices). A logic level shifter is required if the devices don’t share the same logic levels (3.3V and 5V for instance)

Connecting Sensors to a Microcontroller

Sensors can be interfaced with microcontrollers in a similar way than motor controllers. Sensors can use the following types of communication:
  • Digital: The sensor has a digital signal pin that connects directly to a digital microcontroller pin. A simple switch can be regarded as a digital sensor.
  • Analogue: Analogue sensors produce an analogue voltage signal that needs to be read by an analogue pin. If your microcontroller does not have analog pins, you will need a separate analog to digital circuit (ADC). Also, some sensors some with the required power supply circuit and usually have three pins: V+, GND and Signal. If a sensor is a simple variable resistor for instance, it will require you to create a voltage divider in order to read the resulting variable voltage.
  • Serial or I2C: the same communication principles explained for motor controllers apply here.

Communication device to microcontroller

Most communication devices (e.g. XBee, Bluetooth) use serial communication, so the same RX,TX, GND and V+ connections are required. It is important to note that although several serial connections can be shared on the same RX and TX pins, proper bus arbitration is required in order to prevent cross-talk, errors and madness in general. If you have very few serial devices, it is often simple to use a single serial port for each one of them.

Wheels to motors

Ideally, you would have chosen wheels or sprockets which are designed to fit the shaft of the motor you chose. If not, hopefully there is a hub which fits between the two. If you find that the wheel and motor you have chosen are not compatible with one another and cannot find a suitable hub, you may need to find another hub which connects to the wheel but has a smaller bore, you would then drill out the hub’s bore to the same diameter as the shaft.

Electrical components to frame

You can mount electronics to a frame using a variety of methods. Be sure that whatever means you use do not conduct electricity. Common methods include: hex spacers, screws, nuts, double-sided tape, Velcro,  glue, cable ties, etc.

Practical Example

  1. Settle on a construction material choice.
  2. We are getting the following parts in order to measure and test fit them:
    • 2x Gear motors with 90 degree shafts
    • 1x Arduino Uno
    • 1x Johnny Robot Standard GM Track Kit
    • 2x Arduino Motor controller Shield
    • 2x Mini Breadboard
  3. We will try to stay close to a 6 sided box, but may have had to make modifications in order to accommodate for all parts
  4. Some modifications need to be done to the design in order to accommodate for all parts such as:
    • Add more mounting holes for the battery pack
    • Add more mounting points for servos or other accessories
    • Refined the hole placement.
  5. The cardboard frame will be made by printing the design onto white cardboard (or gluing a printed paper sheet onto cardboard), cutting it, bending it and using (hot) glue in order to reinforce the bends, edges and surfaces.
  6. We completely assembled the robot using the cardboard frame in order to make sure everything fits properly.
  7. We measure everything again and once we were absolutely sure about the design, we had it professionally manufactured.
  8. Test fit each component in case modifications are require.
  9. The frame is made in one piece so no assembly is required
  10. Assembled the robot incorporating lots of accessories.

Getting the Right Tools

At this stage, you should have all the main components for your robot including actuators, motor controllers, a microcontroller, sensors, and communication systems.
Workbench by zatalian
Image credit: zatalian
You are now approaching the integration stage where you will put all these parts together in what will likely be a custom robotic frame. For this, you will need to get your workshop/laboratory/bat cave ready with the appropriate tools.

Robotics Workshop

We have set up three possible robotic-oriented labs scenarios. Choosing which parts to add to your lab depends on how many robots you plan to make, and how involved in robotics you would like to get. We have outlined three broad categories for labs, but don’t assume the three labs are exclusive; in the real world, you will undoubtedly find robot builders who have tools from more than one section, and can give you a list of other tools which they have found useful. TheEssential setup is intended for first time robot builders who foresee building a few inexpensive robots for fun or have a single project in mind. It is the least expensive setup at less than $100, but don’t be fooled by the price tag. In the right hands, a workshop such as this can be used to create professional robots too. The Intermediate setup is intended for builders who are not quite “professional” but are willing to invest a bit more in tools and equipment in order to ease fabrication, assembly, testing and troubleshooting. The Ultimate setup is intended for users who plan to make many advanced robots and prototypes, using a variety of parts and materials. This type of builder wants the finished prototype to look as professional as possible and may even want to produce some small production runs of the finished design. This is the type of setup would likely find at a small robotics company. We cannot cover all the tools required at this level but can give some general suggestions. As always, it is very important to have the right tool for the right task and only you know your needs best. Below, you will find the various tools and materials suggestions for your workshop classified by level and type.

Mechanical Tools

  • Wire StripperEssential
    • Small screwdriver setThese small screwdrivers are necessary when working with electronics. Don’t force them too much though – their size makes them more fragile.
    • Regular screwdriver setAll workshops need a multi-tool or tool set which includes flat / Phillips and other screwdriver heads.
    • Needle nose pliersA set of needle nose pliers is incredibly useful when working with small components and parts and is a very inexpensive addition to your toolbox. These are different from regular pliers because they come to a point which can get into small areas.
    • Wire strippers/cuttersIf you are planning to cut any wires, a wire stripper will save you considerable time and effort.  A wire stripper, when used properly, will only remove a cable insulation and will not produce any kinks or damage the conductors. The other alternative to a wire stripper is a pair of scissors, though the end result can be messy.
    • Scissors, ruler, pen, marker pencil, exacto knife (or other handheld cutting tool)These are essentials in any office.
  • Dremel Rotary MultitoolIntermediate
    • Rotary Tool(Dremel for example)Rotary tools have proven to be incredibly versatile and can replace most of the conventional power tools provided the work that needs to be done is at a small-scale. They can cut, drill, sand, engrave, polish, etc.
    • DrillA drill is very useful especially when creating larger holes or using stronger / thicker materials. If you are prepared to make the investment, a drill-press allows you to reliably create perfectly perpendicular holes.
    • SawA saw of some type is beneficial at this stage to cut thicker materials or make long straight cuts. You can use a hand saw (although you may need to finish the edges), a bandsaw, table saw, etc.
    • ViseAs your work become more complex, you will need to hold materials and parts firmly in place while you work on them. A vise is essential for this and allows to go further in terms of precision and quality.
  • Sherline 5400a CNC Tabletop vertical millUltimate
    • Tabletop CNC millA tabletop CNC machine allows you to precisely machine plastics, metals and other materials and creates three dimensional, intricate shapes.
    • Tabletop latheA (manual) tabletop lathe allows you to create your own hubs, shafts, spacers, adapters and wheels out of various materials. A CNC lathe tends to be overkill since most builders only need to change the diameter rather than create complex shapes.
    • Vacuum Forming MachineVacuum forming machines are used to create complex plastic shells that are moulded to your exact specifications.
    • Metal BendersWhen making robotic frames or enclosures out of sheet metal or metal extrusions, using a metal bender essential in order to obtain precise and repeatable bends.
    • Other Specialized toolsAt this stage, you will be very aware of your machnining needs and will probably require more specialized tools such as metal nibblers, welding machines, 3D printers, etc.

Electrical Tools

  • Boe Bot Breadboard - By robotroom.comEssential
    • BreadboardThis has nothing to do with slicing bread. These boards are used to easily create prototype circuits without having to solder. This is good in the event that you have not fully developed your soldering skills or want to quickly put together prototypes and test ideas without having to solder a new circuit each time.
    • Jumper wiresThese wires fit perfectly from hole to hole on a solderless breadboard and not only look pretty but also prevent clutter.
    • Breadboard power supply When experimenting with electronics it is very important to have a reliable and easy to use power source. A breadboard power supply is the least expensive power supply offering these features.
    • Soldering tool kitAn inexpensive soldering iron kit has all the basic components needed to help you learn how to solder and make simple circuits.
    • MultimeterA multimeter is used to measure voltage, resistance, current, check continuity of connections and more. If you know you will be building several robots and working with electronics, it is wise to invest in a higher quality multimeter.
    • Wall adapterStandard voltages used in robotics include: 3.3V, 5V, 6V, 9V, 12V, 18V and 24V. 6V is a good place to start since it is often the minimum voltage for DC gear motors and microcontrollers and is also the maximum voltage for servo motors. A wall adapter can also be a good replacement for batteries since they can be very expensive in the long run. A wall adapter can allow you to use your project without interruption whereas even rechargeable batteries need to be recharged.
  • Soldering StationIntermediate
    • The Intermediate electronics lab builds upon the essential lab by adding the following:
    • Adjustable temperature soldering stationA basic soldering iron can only take you so far. A variable temperature soldering iron with interchangeable tips will allow you to be more precise and decrease the risk of burning or melting components.
    • Brass sponge for solderIn combination with the more traditional wet sponge to wipe away excess solder, a brass sponge can help clean the soldering iron tip without cooling it down, allowing you to spring back into action quicker and solder like a ninja.
    • Variable power supply(instead of wall adapter)Having a powerful and reliable power source is very important when developing complex circuits and robots. A variable power supply allows you to test various voltages and currents without the hassle of needing several types of batteries and power adaptors.
  • Digital Oscilloscope DSO NaoUltimate
    • OscilloscopeAn oscilloscope is very useful when dealing with analogue circuits or periodic signals.
    • Logic AnalyserA logic analyzer is like a “digital eye” when working with digital signals. It allows you to see and store the data produced by a microcontroller and makes it simpler to debug digital circuits.

Miscellaneous

  • Third hand with magnifying-glassEssential
    • 22 gauge hook-up wireThe most common wire diameter (gauge) used in robotics is 22 (0.0254 ” or 0.64 mm). Although there are advantages to multi-strand wires, single strand (solid core) allows you to easily plug them into pin headers and breadboards.
    • Third handWhen soldering, having a helping hand that is impervious to heat is extremely useful. A third had is an incredibly helpful tool since it holds the PCB and components in place while you solder.
    • Hot glue gunA hot glue gun is incredibly useful no matter what your level of expertise and will only set you back a few dollars. The glue which comes out of a hot glue gun sets rapidly and provides a good bond. Unlike normal glue, this glue is three-dimensional, which means you can use it as a spacer; glue; filler; bridge etc.
    • TapeThe most popular types of tape used in robotics are duct and electrical. Electrical tape is best suited for electrical components (since it does not conduct) while duct tape is best for structural elements.
  • Digital Vernier CalliperIntermediate
    • Thicker wireAs you build larger robots, DC motors will require higher current and therefore larger diameter wires. The lower the gauge, the thicker the wire and the more current it can handle.
    • Vernier calliperIn addition to a regular ruler, a vernier allows you to more precisely measure parts as well as diameters (both inside and outside).

Software

  • Essential
    • CADSketchup 3D ModelGoogle SketchUpis a free program which can be used to create your robot in 3D, to the proper scale, complete with texture. This can help you ensure that parts are not overlapping, check dimensions for holes and change the design before it is built.Autodesk 123D is another free 3D CAD (Computer Aided Design) software aimed at hobbyists. While it shares many of the same features as Google Sketchup, it has some interesting features such as solid-based part design, assemblies, parametrized transforms and other functionalities that are usually seen in higher end CAD programs.
    • Programming softwareYour first programming software should correspond to whichever microcontroller you selected. If you chose an Arduino microcontroller, you should choose the Arduino software; if you chose a Basic Stamp from Parallax, you should choose PBasic and so forth. In order to use a variety of microcontrollers, you may want to learn a more fundamental programming language such as BASIC or C.
    • Schematics and PCBsThere are many free programs available on the market, and CadSoft’s EAGLE is one of the more popular. It includes an extensive library of parts and helps you convert your schematic to a PCB.
  • Ultimate
    • CADSolidWorks is the CAD program of choice for many when doing mechanical design but it is certainly not the only one available. Whet working at this level (i.e. using programs worth several thousands of dollars) you should have a good idea of your needs in order to choose the right tool (Unigraphics, Catia, ProE etc.).
    • CAMIf you are using a CNC machine, you will need a proper 3D CAD program such as ProE, AutoCAD, SolidWorks or other similar program. In order to convert your CAD model to useable code to send to the CNC machine, you need  a CAM program. Often you can purchase a CAM program specifically for the CAD software you selected, or find a third-party supplier.

Raw Materials

  • Essential
    • Plastic SheetThin sheet metalThis material can be cut easily with scissors and can be bent and shaped as needed to form the frame or other components of your robot without necessarily having to do machining.
    • CardboardThe right cardboard (thick but can still be cut using hand tools) can easily be used to make a frame or prototype. Even basic glue can be used to hold cardboard together.
    • Thin plasticPolypropylene, PVC about 1/16” thick can be scored or sawed to create a more rigid and longer lasting frame for your robot.
    • Thin woodWood is a great material to work with if you have the means. It can be screwed, glued, sanded, finished and more.
  • PolymorphIntermediate
    • PolymorphPolymorph allows you to create plastic parts without the hassle of having to create custom moulds.
    • Sheet metalIf you have thicker metal-cutting sheers, sheet metal makes an excellent building material for a robot frame because of its durability, flexibility and resistance to rust.
    • Plastic sheetsPlastic sheets are fairly rigid and resist deformation. If you are cautious and slow when cutting or drilling most plastics, the results can look professional

Practical Examples

Essential Workshop: Ard-e

Ard-e robot Ard-e, the Arduino based robot , is an example of what you could do achieve with a simple workshop including only essential tools.

Intermediate Workshop: POLYRO

POLYRO POLYRO is a very advanced robot that can be built with an intermediate workshop. It has most of the features professional robotic platforms used in research laboratories have. Although it has many complex parts, mostly all of them can be put made using simple hand tools. For the standard practical example included at the bottom of every lesson, only an intermediate level lab would be needed to put the robot together. We will go into more detail in the following lesson.

Ultimate Workshop: BaR2D2

BaR2D2 The BaR2D2 is a good example of what can be achieved with such an advanced robotic workshop. It has many intricate custom-machined parts and requires good tooling abilities